Civita di Bagnoregio, an ancient town perched on a hill on the border between Lazio and Umbria, almost half way between Orvieto and Viterbo, with a blinding and moving beauty. Built on a hill of tufa stone and connected to the rest of the world only by a bridge over the valley, this village appears like an island suspended between clay gullies: gullies that are eroding because of two streams that have consumed the rock for millennia. Civita is dying, little by little, eaten by time and the elements. But today, fortunately, it is still here, clinging tightly to its stone tower that dominates the Lazio countryside. Indeed, in recent years several buildings in the center have been recovered and restored, cascades of flowers adorn the windows and stairways, in the alleys of the village there are new bars and restaurants. Although it is only inhabited by a small group of families, who do not wish to leave, the town is experiencing a new youth. A swan song? No matter, Civita has never been so beautiful. If after a walk it is absolutely worth it to sit at one of the outdoor tables of the taverns or norcinerie to sample meat and cold cuts of pork, and fettuccine with a chicken giblet sauce.